Subscriber Preview: Sourdough Bagels

Here’s that subscriber sneak preview recipe I promised last week. Like I said, it’s a work-in-progress, but is in good enough shape for you to test out if you want. Please let me know if anything looks amiss, and/or if you have any questions or issues. I’ll add shaping instructions and videos soon, but in the meantime you can find loads of them online if you need help. Thanks to Jess Wagoner for all of her invaluable advice (this recipe is as much hers as it is mine), and to Anne Muskopf for being a sneak preview sneak previewer.

—Andrew

(PDF version here)

• This recipe was developed in collaboration with Jess Wagoner (aka  the Grainiac).

• This recipe relies on the use of a 50% hydration (2:1 flour-to-water) sweet starter with 22.5% sugar in it (which amounts to a total sugar concentration of 35%) to suppress bacterial activity and minimize sourness. The bagels will not be sweet, since some of the sugar is consumed in the fermentation, and what remains is diluted in the final dough.  

• To convert your 100% hydration starter to a 50% one: combine 100g flour, 37g water, and 50g 100% hydration levain in a bowl, and then knead a on lightly-floured countertop until uniform. Transfer to a covered container and allow to proof until doubled, 4 to 6 hours, then use or refrigerate for up to 1 week.

• Diastatic malt will help with browning if available. 

• Barley malt syrup in the dough is for flavor. If unavailable, use 10g of molasses instead.

• You won’t see much activity in the dough before retarding it; not to worry, the high percentage of preferment in the dough means it will be plenty proofed nonetheless. 

• Details on shaping are coming. I have made this recipe with both the belly-button-poke and the rope & twist method, and both work, though the latter can tend to unravel in the boil if not very forcefully sealed (be careful also not to use too much bench flour during shaping). [This is the part of the recipe I'm still fiddling with.]

• No matter which shaping method you use, be sure to stretch bagels to about 4 inches in diameter, with a 2-inch center hole, otherwise the bagels will close up and have a conical shape.

• Lay the bagels on the pan in an 8-of-diamonds pattern, like this:

  

• The baking soda in the boil will also help with browning. 

• The malt bath will foam up when adding the baking soda and salt, so sprinkle it in a little at a time. 

• The bath shoudln’t be at a rolling boil when you add the bagels, just make sure it stays above 180˚F or so.

• If the bagels sink when placed into the bath, gently move them around so that they don’t stick to the bottom of the pot.
  

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Sourdough Bagels

Makes eight 130g bagels

Overall Formula

100% high-gluten or bread flour 

1.5% vital wheat gluten (optional, helpful if using bread flour)

62% water

6.75% sugar

2% barley malt syrup

1% diastatic malt powder (optional)

2.2% salt

75% levain/30% pre-fermented flour

Sweet Levain

80g 80˚F water

37g sugar

120g 50% hydration starter

165g high gluten or bread flour 

Dough

380g High gluten or bread flour

8g vital wheat gluten (optional, helpful if using bread flour)

5g diastatic malt powder (if using)

240g cool (60˚F) water

5g barley malt syrup

12g salt

Bath

4 quarts water

1/4 cup barley malt syrup

1 tablespoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1. FOR THE SWEET LEVAIN: Combine water, sugar, and starter in medium bowl and stir until combined and sugar is dissolved. Add flour and knead by hand until even in texture. Cover bowl and let sit at 75-80˚F until doubled in volume, 4 to 6 hours. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 12 hours before using.

2. FOR THE DOUGH: Place flour, vital wheat gluten (if using), diastatic malt (if using), water, malt syrup, and 400g sweet levain in bowl of food processor (or stand mixer fitted with dough hook) and process until dough is just mixed and no dry flour remains, 30 seconds to 1 minute (1 to 2 minutes in a stand mixer on medium speed). Allow to sit for 30 minutes (loosely covered if using a stand mixer).

3. Add salt and process until even ball forms (dough will remain slightly rough-textured), 30 to 60 seconds (6 to 8 minutes in a stand mixer at medium speed).

4. Desired dough temperature: 76-78˚F

5. Knead dough on lightly-flour counter until smooth. Transfer to lightly-oiled bowl, cover, and let sit at 75-80˚F for 2 hours, with coil folds at 45 and 90 minutes. 

6. Transfer to refrigerator and let sit for 12 to 18 hours. 

7. TO BOIL AND BAKE: Line cookie sheet or rimmed baking sheet with silicone liner (or parchment paper lightly coated with nonstick spray). Divide dough into eight 130g pieces and shape each into tight rounds. Transfer to sheet, cover, and let sit until dough is at least 55 degrees, 45 to 90 minutes. 

8. At least 30 minutes before baking, set oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Bring water to boil in large Dutch oven. Remove pot from heat, add malt syrup and stir to dissolve. Add baking soda and salt (slowly to avoid foaming) and then cover pot. 

9. Working with 1 dough ball at a time and keeping remaining pieces covered, coat dough balls lightly with flour and then shape bagels and return to sheet. 

10. Bring pot of water back to boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium low. Transfer 4 bagels to water and let cook until they float, 20 to 60 seconds. Using wire skimmer or slotted spoon, flip bagels over and cook 20 seconds longer. Using wire skimmer or slotted spoon, drain bagels well and then transfer back to sheet. Repeat with remaining 4 bagels.

11. Coat bagels if desired (see below for directions), then transfer tray to oven and bake until deep golden brown, 18 to 24 minutes, rotating pan after 10 minutes. Transfer bagels to wire rack and let cool for at least 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
    

TO COAT BAGELS: Place 1 cup poppy seeds, sesame seeds, caraway seeds, onion flakes, garlic flakes, or everything mix in small bowl. Place just-boiled bagels gently in topping, flip to coat second side, then return to pan. 

EVERYTHING MIX RECIPE: For Everything Topping , combine 2 tablespoons poppy seeds, 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon onion flakes, 2 teaspoons garlic flakes, 2 teaspoons caraway seeds, and 1/2 teaspoon coarse or pretzel salt.